Now, under pressure from consumers, a new wave of food brands are banishing BPA from their packaging by either switching the composition of their can liners or moving away from cans altogether to different packaging formats.  In addition to the brands listed below, Whole Foods Market claims that 27% of their canned private label items (“365″ brand) are now in BPA-free cans, but customer service could not provide me a list of which ones when I contacted them via e-mail due to fluctuation in available BPA-free can supply.

The BPA Basics

Polycarbonate (PC) is a plastic used for a variety of purposes, including to line the insides of metal food cans and tubes to keep their contents from touching–and therefore reacting with and being contaminated by–the metal.

The problem with BPA is that animal studies show it to be an endocrine disruptor.  In other words, it mimics the effects of certain human hormones, notably estrogen, and can therefore interfere with normal human development–particularly of the brain, prostate, and sex organs–and bodily functions, particularly of the metabolism.  While the body is able to excrete a dose of BPA within a few hours, many experts are concerned about the health implications of regular, chronic exposure to this chemical, even in small doses, such that it is constantly present in the body.  Furthermore, experts disagree on what a “safe” dose may actually be.  Indeed, data from the Centers for Disease Control (CDC) suggest that BPA  is present in the urine of 93% of Americans, indicating that pretty much all of us are exposed to it on a regular basis–both from the environment as well as the food supply.  Canada has declared it toxic and banned it from infant and baby products.  The US Food and Drug Administration is currently reviewing the evidence regarding BPA and human health before deciding on whether to follow suit, but in the interim, states that it is “taking reasonable steps to reduce human exposure to BPA in the food supply.”  The agency has promised to issue a decision on whether or not to ban BPA from food and beverage packaging by March 31, 2012, so stay tuned…

While direct causation between BPA exposure and adverse health outcomes in humans has not yet been established, recent research has shown that women with PCOS (polycystic ovarian syndrome) had significantly higher levels of BPA in their blood compared to a control group (and that higher BPA levels were also correlated with insulin resistance in the PCOS group).  A larger 2008 study published in the Journal of the American Medical Association similarly showed that higher concentrations of BPA in the urine were associated with an increased risk of cardiovascular disease, diabetes and abnormal liver enzymes in the blood–the latter of which may be clinically indicative of fatty liver disease or other metabolic conditions.  Some research also suggests that maternal exposure to BPA may be associated with behavioral issues in young girls, but more research is needed.  Associations may not be causation, but it surely seems safe to conclude that high exposure to BPA certainly isn’t benefiting anyone.

Where BPA is:

• Most canned foods (with the exception of brands listed below).  A compendium of non-profit agencies sponsored a study and report entitled “No Silver Lining,” in which they investigated BPA levels in food from 50 cans of food purchased in 19 states.  They found BPA in food from 92% of the cans, and variables such as product type, brand, organic or conventional or place of purchase had no bearing on the level of this chemical residue.
• Most metal food tubes (such as those used for tomato paste)
• 5 gallon bottles of water, such as those used in your office water cooler (unless specifically labeled BPA-free)
• Any plastic labeled with a #3 (“V” or “PVC”), including some vegetable oil bottles or some clear food packaging
• Any plastic labeled with a #7 (or “PC”), including some Tupperware products or other similar food containers bearing this label.  Note that many of the disposable food storage containers, like Gladware and Ziploc, are made with #5 plastic and therefore should not contain BPA.

Where BPA isn’t:

• Any plastic labeled #1 PET, such as most single-serve water bottles and soft drink bottles
• Any plastic labeled #2 HDPE, such as gallon milk jugs, juice bottles, cereal box liners
• Any plastic labeled #4 LDPE, such as frozen food bags, bread bags and certain squeezable plastic containers
• Any plastic labeled #5 PP, such as yogurt, hummus or cottage cheese containers, margarine tubs, drinking straws
• Tetra-paks (a.k.a. aseptic packaging, such as the cartons used to package coconut water, shelf-stable ricemilk, chicken broth, etc..)
• Glass, Ceramics, Pyrex, Corningware.  Noted that some studies have found trace amounts of BPA in jarred foods owing to BPA used in the LID liners, even though the glass jars themselves are BPA-free.

BPA-Free Pantry Staples

Fortunately, there are plenty of BPA-free versions for most every pantry staple.  You just need to be aware of what the alternatives are, and vote with your wallet to send a message to food manufacturers that it’s time to eliminate BPA from their packaging.

Since eliminating all canned foods from your life may be impractical, I’d suggest focusing on the products you use with the most regularity–and especially ones you use to feed your kids.  If you are pregnant or nursing, I would suggest reducing your intake of canned foods as much as possible so as to err on the side of caution.

Ready-to-Eat Beans:

• Eden Foods markets their beans in a BPA-free can and have been doing so for years.
• According to the company’s Facebook page, Amy’s Kitchen, known for their canned baked beans, refried beans, bean soups and chilis, started switching their products over to a BPA-free can in early 2011.  The switch is supposed to be be complete by year-end, which is just about now…
• A new company, called Fig Food Co., has recently started distributing its ready-to-eat beans (and bean soups) at Whole Foods and some of the local health food stores on my stroller circuit.  Their organic, low-sodium products are cleverly packaged in a BPA-free tetra-pak.  I picked up a box of their Organic Baked Beans–which, incidentally, are also gluten free and vegetarian– the other day and they were quite tasty!
• Of course, if you can find the organizational skills to plan ahead and soak dry beans overnight, that’s the cheapest and surest way to ensure there’s no BPA in your beans!

Tomatoes

• Marinara sauce: Any sauce sold in a glass jar is going to be mostly BPA-free (though trace amounts may be present owing to BPA used in the lid liner).  Still, the jarred stuff will almost certainly have much less BPA than canned stuff, so this packaging would be preferable.
• Diced and crushed tomatoes:
• Eden Organic sells crushed and diced tomatoes in glass jars.  It appears their canned tomatoes may still be in cans with BPA-containing liners.
• Muir Glen Organic appears to be the first marketer to have cracked the code on a BPA-free can for an acidic product like tomatoes.  According to the company’s website, at this writing, the company is “transitioning to can liners that do not use BPA as we are canning this year’s harvest.”  I take this statement to mean that many of the products currently on store shelves are probably still the old BPA-lined variety, though I understand that products with a “use by 2013″ date should indeed be the new BPA-free batch.
• While you’re waiting for Muir Glen’s newest, BPA-free cans to arrive on a shelf near you, an Italian brand called Pomi markets a variety of tomato products, including chopped (diced), crushed and tomato sauce, all packed in BPA-free Tetra-Paks.
• Tomato Paste: While most tomato pastes are sold in cans or aluminum squeeze tubes (also BPA-lined, unfortunately), a brand called Bionaturae sells its version in a 7 oz glass jar.  I bought mine at Whole Foods.

Coconut Milk

• Currently, Native Forest is the only brand I’m aware of that markets a canned, BPA-free coconut milk.  Unless you use large amounts of coconut milk very regularly, however, I personally wouldn’t worry about using a conventional brand for the occasional 1/2 cup you use every month or so.

Vegetables

• For staples like peas, corn and string beans, choose frozen over canned.  (They taste way better and are more nutritious, anyway).  To heat them up, either steam the frozen vegetables on the stovetop, or microwave them with a few tablespoons of water in a covered microwave-safe glass or Pyrex/Corningware dish.  DO NOT microwave them (or any food) in a plastic container!
• For specialty items, like artichoke hearts, you can easily find products packaged in a glass container.  Choose these instead of canned, unless you’re buying Native Forest brand, whose canned fruits and vegetables are in BPA-free cans.

Soups and Stocks

• Look for soups and broths sold in Tetra-Paks, like those by Pacific Natural Foods, or Imagine Foods.
• Alternatively, use bouillon cubes for broths

Canned Kiddie Pasta

• I can think of 100 reasons to avoid buying canned pasta products like Chef Boyardee Ravioli or Campbell’s SpaghettiOs for your kids.  But their BPA content is probably sufficient to make a compelling argument for choosing refrigerated (fresh) or frozen ravioli instead and/or boiling your own alphabet-shaped dry pasta.  We’re all crazy busy, but are any of us really *THAT* busy that we can’t even find the time to boil water for pasta?

Tuna Fish

• Look for mainstream brands of tuna sold in those “flavor fresh” pouches rather than cans, such as StarKist or Chicken of the Sea.  The pouches are BPA-free.
• If you’re willing to spend more for a more sustainably fished tuna, look for brands called Wild Planet or  Vital Choice; they both market a BPA-free canned tuna product.  (You can order tuna online from both companies, along with a variety of other canned seafood products.)
• Whole Foods brand canned tuna (and salmon) are consistently in BPA-free cans as well, according to an email response I received from their customer service

No related posts.

Reduce diet-related disease by promoting safe, healthy foods

Support sustainable farms & limit subsidies to big agribusiness

Expand access to food and alleviate hunger

Protect the environment and animals by reforming factory farms

Promote health by curbing junk food marketing to kids

Support fair conditions for food and farm workers

If you’re interested in furthering some or all of these causes, here are some ideas to get involved or learn more:

Join me at EAT NYC today, October 24, at 6:30pm: Columbia Grammar and Prepatory School (5 W. 93rd St)

• I’ll be partnered with G-free NYC, the city’s only gluten-free marketplace, at EAT NYC– a celebration of local, healthful and sustainable eating in New York City.  There will be food tastings from some of NYC’s best restaurants…streaming episodes of “LUNCH NYC,” a TV series highlighting health-conscious goings-on around town…NYC organizations working hard to improve food systems in the city… and of course, a chance to chat with me about what’s on your mind as we nibble on free gluten-free, healthy snacks generously provided by Beanitos, Zing Bars, Kookie Karma, Mini Pops, Skinny Crisps and Purely Elizabeth!

Take Action on an issue important to you by signing a petition!

• E-mail a letter to Congress demanding that they take measures to fix our broken food system in the upcoming Farm Bill!  Click here to sign a letter that will be sent to your state Senator and representative in the House!

• Sign a petition to support pending legislation in your state requiring Genetically Modified Food to be labeled.

• Californians: Call Governor Jerry Brown and ask him to reverse the state’s decision to allow the use of carcinogenic pesticide Methyl Iodide on Strawberries!  Use the talking points and phone number provided by the Pesticide Action Network of North America provided here.

Visit a local farmer’s market and buy some fresh-in season produce to cook a from-scratch meal tonight!

• Here in New York, the Union Square Farmer’s Market is open for business today (Monday) until 6:00pm, and the stands are piled high with crispy local apples, the season’s first cruciferous veggies, gorgeous squash of varying shapes and sizes, and all the leafy greens, herbs, fresh baked breads and humanely-raised meat, eggs and cheese you need to complement your meal.
• To find a Farmer’s Market near you, visit Local Harvest’s website and enter your zip code!

Read a great book to learn more about the issues above!  Some recent reads I recommend are include:

• The Town that Food Saved, by Ben Hewitt
• Eating Animals, by Jonathan Safran Foer
• The End of the Line, by Charles Clover
• Food, Inc, by Karl Weber, Ed.

Vote with your wallet!

• No message is clearer to food manufacturers than the one you send by choosing to buy–or stop buying– their products.
•  If you eat meat, choose as humanely-and sustainably raised meat as you can afford (and eat less of it).
• Put your order in now for a Heritage Breed Turkey for Thanksgiving to avoid having to buy a factory-farmed variety.  (Attention GILT members: whole Amish Heritage breed turkeys are 30% off now @ gilttaste.com !)
• Choose Pastured or Certified Humane Eggs (and learn more about de-coding egg label claims by reading this helpful guide)
• Choose sustainable varieties of fish as recommended by the Monterrey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watch (you can download the app!)

Happy Eating!

No related posts.

Not so today.

Our industrial food system has complicated food beyond reason, and our government’s poor regulatory infrastructure leaves far too much leeway for profit-minded food marketers to decide how much to tell us eaters about what goes into the food they sell us.

Salmon is the perfect example of a once-straightforwardly healthy food that’s become fraught with complications.

Salmon, Theoretically

When salmon is just salmon, that is, living in the wild in its natural habitat and fished sustainably, it ranks pretty high up there among some of the best foods one could eat for good health.  It’s a complete protein (21g total per 3oz serving cooked), containing all of the essential amino acids our bodies can’t produce on their own, but unlike most other animal proteins, it’s very low in saturated fat (1g per 3 oz serving) and an excellent source of heart-healthy omega-3 fats (that same 3oz serving contains about 1.5g of  EPA and DHA, which is about a 3-day dose of what experts are starting to believe is necessary for improved cardiovascular function in otherwise healthy adults).  Finally, salmon is among the lowest mercury fish, meaning that even pregnant women can enjoy up to 12oz of it weekly without worry.  All that for about 150 calories!

Wild salmon is also an excellent food for babies (and nursing moms), assuming baby has no known fish allergies.  Contrary to conventional lore, there’s no evidence to support avoiding fish in baby’s first 12-36 months of life as an effective allergy prevention strategy, and some limited emerging evidence that suggests withholding possibly-allergenic foods for too long may even increase the risk of childhood food allergy.  As we learn more about the role DHA and EPA have in childhood brain and eye development, in fact, protein-rich and soft-textured salmon becomes an even more attractive food to introduce to your little Einstein–particularly since their burgeoning palettes are still acquiring their taste preferences.  You should feel comfortable introducing texture-appropriate, low-mercury fish (but not shellfish) to babies as early as 6 months, and baby food marketers are finally catching on to the idea by introducing salmon baby foods.

Salmon, in Reality: Farmed vs. Wild

Over 90% of salmon sold in our country is farmed.  The reality, sadly, is that the vast majority of “Atlantic salmon” sold in the U.S., regardless of its country of origin, is raised in penned-off, crowded water “farms” where the fish are very susceptible to infection by parasites due to the close quarters, and the large amounts of waste generated pollute nearby open waters.  According to the Environmental Defense Fund, farmed Atlantic salmon is also very high in PCBs, an environmental pollutant that may have a detrimental effect on developing children at high levels.  Furthermore, farmed salmon are fed commercial fish food that contains a relatively high amount of grains like corn (you can thank ongoing corn subsidies in the Farm Bill for that one), which makes the farmed salmon relatively higher in inflammatory omega-6 fats and lower in the desirable omega-3 fats than wild salmon.  However, to be fair, farmed salmon still does contain a respectable amount of omega-3s.   If your salmon isn’t labeled “farmed” or “wild” (which it should be, according to a new law passed in March 2009), you should assume that it is farmed, Atlantic salmon.

While wild salmon is generally endangered, particularly in the Atlantic Ocean, the Pacific Ocean fisheries in Alaska are very well-managed to prevent over-fishing.  Their fish have lower levels of PCBs and feed on their natural prey, which contributes to their naturally high omega-3 fat content.  Therefore, Wild Alaskan salmon is currently the best choice for omega-3-rich, low-toxin, environmentally-sound salmon.

Most canned salmon sold in the U.S. comes from Wild Alaskan salmon (it will be labeled as such), so if fresh Wild Alaskan salon fillets are cost-prohibitive, I’d recommend trying out some fun recipes using the canned stuff.

Arctic Char

Alternatively, a fish called Arctic Char is very salmon-like in appearance, taste and nutritional value, and is a less expensive alternative to wild salmon.  While this species of fish, which comes mostly from the US, Canada and Northern Europe, is generally farmed, the farming system used is much less harmful to the environment and the fish than the typical Atlantic Salmon farming operation.  And according to a report by the Monterrey Bay Aquarium, Arctic Char tolerate denser quarters much better than salmon.  I’d recommend Farmed Arctic Char about as strongly as I would Wild Atlantic Salmon for all of these reasons.

It’s worth mentioning, but perhaps not dwelling on (since there’s nothing we can do about it), that plenty of imposter farmed salmon is being mislabeled and sold as “wild” to unwitting consumers, even at fancy, reputable markets.  What can I say about this except that all we can do is make the best choices we can with the information we are given, and hope that unscrupulous marketers are few and far between.

Pay Attention to your Salmon’s Country of Origin

I’ve written previously about the risks associated with purchasing fish imported from countries with lax enforcement of health and environmental norms, of which China tops the list.  I recommend avoiding fish imported from Asia in general and China in particular, as the FDA only inspects 1% of these imports for illegal contaminants such as antibiotics, pesticides and carcinogens.  Granted, I’ve never actually come across salmon imported from China, but this warning applies to all fish, especially Tilapia, for which Chinese imports dominate the U.S. market.  By law, all fish must be labeled with its country of origin; if your supermarket doesn’t provide this information, they are breaking the law and you should let them know.

The next layer of complexity: Organic and Genetically-Engineered Salmon

Currently, there is no standard for “organic” labeling of fish, though the USDA has proposed guidelines for future certification that may or may not be adopted.  By definition, “organic” fish would need to be farmed fish in order to meet the standard, and the feed would need to contain 75% organic material and no more than 25% wild fish to qualify.  I guess that means a farmed salmon fed 75% organic corn could be considered organic?  Additionally, these proposed guidelines do not appear to take environmental concerns related to fish farming into consideration.  So for the time being, I think Wild Alaskan salmon is nutritionally and environmentally preferable to any “Organic” Salmon you may come across now or in the future.

And finally, as if the salmon landscape wasn’t confusing enough, a company called AquaBounty Technologies has developed a genetically-modified salmon that has been under consideration for approval by the FDA.  The salmon’s main claim to fame is that it carries a gene for growth hormone from another fish species that enables it to grow faster, making it a commercially-attractive proposition to profit-minded salmon farming operations.  (There are other curious things about this new creature; see NPR’s piece on ‘Weird Facts About Genetically Engineered Salmon‘ for the details).  Thankfully, the FDA Advisory Panel which met this week did not vote to approve this new Frankenfish, citing the need for more safety data related to its possible effects on food allergy promotion and the environment.  But given the agency’s industry-friendly history related to genetically-engineered foods, it may just be a matter of time until this new variable to consider–assuming the FDA even requires that it be labeled– arrives at a fish counter near you.

If you want to let the FDA know that you oppose the approval of this genetically-modified salmon, you can click here to sign an online petition.

Swimming Upstream

*Sigh*.  It’s a lot to keep up with, and sometimes it can feel as though in our quest to eat real food that’s good for us, we’re swimming upstream.  The best we can do is keep as informed as possible, keep cooking at home with the best foods and ingredients we can afford, and vote with our wallets for the food producers we feel are doing things the right way.

Related posts:

1. Sharing grandma’s love for wallflowerish canned salmon

On one hand, there are multiple, large observational studies out of Asia which show a statistically significant association between higher intakes of natural soy foods and lower risk of developing breast cancer among (mostly post-menopausal) women.  And even those Asian studies which don’t support this association have not shown that eating more traditional soy foods ever increases the risk of breast cancer.  American studies have, by and large, failed to show a similar association, but most researchers chalk this up to the fact that even “high” intakes of soy in the U.S. are lower than the lowest intakes in Asia, meaning that American women are likely not eating enough of the natural phytochemicals in soy called isoflavones that have been credited with its potentially protective effect against breast cancer.  Furthermore, most of the soy eaten in the U.S. is not in the form of traditional, whole-r foods like tofu, miso, tempeh and natto like it is in Asia, but rather in the form of a processed, concentrated, soy-derived food additive called soy protein isolate (SPI), whose isoflavone content may or may not be comparable to that in traditional soy foods.

On the other hand, there is a quieter, but nonetheless disturbing, body of research out there that is linking higher intakes of soy with a variety of unwelcome health outcomes, including thyroid disorders in susceptible people, increased rates of food allergies (especially peanut), intolerances and asthma, and the potential for sexual development problems in children fed soy formula.  If the body of evidence continues to grow and proves these associations more definitively, there are probably a few different biological mechanisms at work here.

• Soy may influence the sexual development of children (especially children fed soy formula as infants) and the hormonal balance of women through the effect of naturally-occurring compounds called “phytoestrogens.” Phytoestrogens are plant estrogens similar enough in structure to the hormone estrogen produced in humans that they can actually bind to our estrogen receptors; soy isoflavones are one of several phytoestrogens present in soy.  Phytoestrogens appear to have potentially beneficial and potentially detrimental effects, which complicates the matter of evaluating soy’s healthfulness.  One one hand, researchers believe that phytoestrogens may compete with more biologically potent human estrogen for receptor sites in our body’s various tissues, and in so doing, it may DECREASE the risk of estrogen-linked cancers like breast cancer in adult women.  But in infants who are still developing, introducing high levels of soy phytoestrogens through soy formula can build up in their tiny bodies quite quickly and possibly influence their sexual development adversely.  Virtually all data on this possible association comes from animal studies– not human studies–so the evidence is not iron-clad that soy formula will increase the risk of problematic sexual development in human children.  However, animal studies suggest that possible side effects could be low testosterone leading to infertility in males and early-onset puberty in females.

• An effect of soy on the thyroid could be mediated by compounds in soy called goitrogens, naturally-occurring compounds that suppress the thyroid’s function by blocking its ability to take up iodine.  In soy, the isoflavone called genistein (which may be one of the same compounds responsible for soy’s beneficial effect on protecting against breast cancer), is goitrogenic.  To be sure, soy is not the only food in which similar goitrogenic compounds naturally occur: cruciferous vegetables (including broccoli, cabbage, turnips and brussels sprouts), millet, and strawberries also contain various types of goitrogens.  So what makes soy different than these other foods?  For starters, the goitrogens in most of these other foods are generally deactivated by the cooking (or fermentation) process.  What’s more is that we tend not to eat these foods in such quantities that the goitrogens in them–neutralized or not–will have any sort of adverse effect on us.  Unlike these other foods, however, the goitrogenic isoflavones in soy are not neutralized by typical cooking and fermentation processes.   In the case of, say, infants, whose sole source of nutrition is soy formula… or adults who are knowingly or unknowingly eating multiple foods everyday “fortified” with soy protein, the levels of goitrogens may become problematic and wreak a bit of havoc on the thyroid… particularly in people with underlying thyroid problems or who are genetically susceptible.  Low-levels of thyroid hormone (hypothyroidism) can cause attention-deficit disorders, memory problems, depression, loss of energy, thinning hair and weight gain.

• The third may be attributable to the fact that, since the launch of genetically modified (GMO) soy in 1996, >90% of soy grown in the world is now GMO, meaning that genes from different species of plants/animals are artificially injected into the soy plant to create novel proteins that our bodies have not before encountered in nature.  Some researchers suspect that in susceptible people–like young children who have immature digestive systems or people with weak/inflammed digestive systems (‘leaky guts’)– these unfamiliar proteins can trigger immune responses to both themselves and to similar proteins which result in food allergies and intolerances, which are notably on the rise for some inexplicable reason.

One would have hoped that the FDA might have forced GMO soy developers (like Monsanto) to show evidence that their products did not, in fact, result in such outcomes before allowing them to unleash their products en masse into our food supply in the mid 1990s–as was done in many European countries.  But one would be disappointed to learn that this did not, in fact, come to pass.  And so, 13+ years after we’ve all been slipped GMO soy protein in everything from our infant formulas and granola bars to our breakfast cereals and fast-food burgers, evidence is just now trickling in that confirms some of these suspicions on the safety of processed soy in general–and GMO soy in particular.

So what’s an eater to do?

My vegetarian and vegan friends rely heavily on soy as a high-quality, complete source of vegetarian protein.  And health authorities keep telling those of us who eat meat to eat less of it… so wouldn’t soy be a lower-fat, healthy substitute?  It’s confusing to be sure.  I’ll be the first to admit that science has yet to offer a definitive answer on soy, but since this column is called “What I’m Eating Now,” I’ll give you my informed opinion, based on the state of the science and expert opinion today as I have come to understand it, on what I recommend with regards to soy. (And I should mention as a caveat that I don’t eat soy protein at all, since I have a digestive intolerance to it.  It’s worth mentioning that soy can be a difficult-to-digest protein for many, which is why the Asian cultures needed to ‘tame’ it through fermentation in many of their traditional foods.)

RED LIGHT SOY FOODS: Foods that just about everyone should avoid.

1. Soy infant formula. The figures I’ve seen show that 20%-25% of babies are being fed soy formula in this country, despite the fact that the American Academy of Pediatrics recommends only TWO
   

   Soy infant formulas are not recommended for milk-allergic babies unless they can't tolerate hypoallergenic, hydrolyzed cow's milk formulas, either.

   indications for the use of soy formula for feeding infants.  1) For vegan infants who are not breastfed; 2) For infants who suffer from a very rare and serious condition called galactosemia, in which they cannot digest lactose (milk sugar) at all, and therefore cannot have any milk-derived formulas. Unfortunately, it’s common practice for pediatricians to tell moms who think or know their babies have a sensitivity to cow’s milk protein (casein) to automatically switch to soy formula.  In fact, it is recommended to first try a hydrolyzed cow’s milk formula, in which the long milk proteins are “pre-digested” into smaller fragments called peptides that should not trigger allergic responses.  There are partially hydrolyzed formulas that contain peptides (small chains of a few amino acids) and elemental formulas, in which the milk proteins are completely broken down into individual amino acids (for hypersensitive infants).  It is always recommended to try these formulas in a milk-allergic baby first before resorting to soy-based formulas; however, their significantly higher cost (and stronger smells) may be prohibitive for many.  Because formula is an infant’s sole source of nutrition, the effect of some of soy’s more problematic compounds can be magnified in such large quantities in such tiny bodies. Soy protein can be difficult for babies to digest owing to the presence of naturally-occurrirng compounds called protease-inhibitors, and the phytates in soy can inhibit the absorption of various minerals, including calcium, iron and zinc. (Note that fermenting soy eliminates these latter problems, which is why traditional Asian foods are able to avoid these problems).   The use of soy formula also appears to be linked to higher rates of peanut allergy and other food intolerances than the use of cow’s milk formulas, so I’d recommend to exhaust all other options before using soy infant formulas if you can… especially if your baby is at high risk for developing food allergies.

YELLOW LIGHT SOY FOODS: If these are daily staples in your diet, I’d cut back to a few times/week for the whole lot combined.  But probably no need to avoid them altogether.

1. Processed foods and drinks containing soy protein isolate (SPI) or soy protein concentrate (SPC), like frozen veggie burgers (Boca Burgers, Gardenburgers, Morningstar Farms Garden Veggie patties), vegetarian meat substitutes made with “TVP” (textured vegetable protein), protein-fortified breakfast cereals (yes…this includes the wildly popular Kashi GoLean…please don’t shoot the messenger!), high-protein shakes or soy protein powders, most meal replacement/”energy” bars (and even some Granola bars, sadly), and soymilk.  (This has been the hardest paragraph I’ve written to date, as I know that many people are fiercely loyal to some of these products for their taste, convenience and ‘healthy’ halo…and frankly, I’m scared of the fallout I’m likely to get.) The fact of the matter is that (1) few Americans (even vegetarians) are protein deficient, so all of this added soy protein in our diets is nutritionally extraneous, (2) unless it’s labeled organic, the soy protein in these foods comes from GMO soy that has NOT been safety-tested in humans and is starting to be associated with some negative (but not life-threatening) health outcomes, (3) it is a highly-processed ingredient subjected to a host of unsavory chemical solvents that may retain toxic residues that can add up when consumed in large quantities, and (4) these foods contain 2-6x more isoflavones than traditional soy foods, delivering a concentrated dose of phytoestrogens that may mess around with your hormonal balance in an as-yet-unknown and possibly unwelcome way.  Now I’m not suggesting that it’s necessary go cold-turkey by any means, but I am suggesting that if your daily routine involves a bowl of Kashi GoLean in Soymilk for breakfast, a high-protein energy bar as an afternoon snack, and a frozen veggieburger for dinner, it might be a good idea to inject some healthy variety into your diet.

Sunshine Burgers are a rare breed of veggieburger: soy AND gluten free.

Alternatively, there are plenty of great convenience products out there that don’t use any soy at all that you might consider trying as well: Larabars are soy and gluten-free; There are a variety of non-dairy, soy-free, calcium-fortified “milks” for your breakfast cereals, including Oat milk, Almond milk, and Rice Milk, Hemp milk (which is a fantastic source of omega-3′s); Sunshine Burgers are sunflower and bean-based frozen veggieburgers that are both soy and gluten free; Mix1 makes refrigerated soy-and-lactose-free shakes that are high in protein, vitamins and fiber.  If you’re a protein-powder person, try hemp protein powder or whey protein isolate as good soy-free, gluten-free, low-lactose alternatives to soy protein powder.

GREEN LIGHT SOY FOODS: Foods you can enjoy without worry.

1. Organic, fermented/traditionally-prepared Asian soy foods like tofu, natto, tempeh or miso. By choosing organic, you’re eliminating the big question mark hanging over
   

   When it comes to soy, do as your fictional Asian grandmother would do

   the use of GMO soybeans, and by choosing more whole, traditionally-prepared foods, you’re benefiting from the time-tested fermentation processes that help tame most of soy’s more problematic nutritional quirks.  As mentioned earlier, virtually all of the data that show a health benefit for soy foods in preventing breast cancer are based on studies of Asian women who ate these types of foods.  There’s no compelling data to suggest you should limit these foods in your diet that I have come across.

2. Organic edamame.  Edamame, or boiled young soybeans, contain a moderate amount of isoflavones and lower levels of anti-nutrients (the protease inhibitors and phytates discussed above) than mature soybeans do.  As a result, edamame make a fine snack whenever you get a hankering.  XXXXXXXXX
3. Soy oil (or vegetable oil containing soy oil) and soy lecithin: If you live in America today and eat anything that comes in a bag, box or wrapper, it’s virtually impossible to avoid these soy-derived ingredients.  Fortunately, you really shouldn’t have to worry about them.  Soybean oil, by definition, won’t contain any detectable protein, and soy lecithin is a phospholipid (also a type of fat) used as an emulsifier in foods (like chocolate, margarine or ice cream) to help keep fat and water from separating.  There shouldn’t be any actual soy protein in either of these ingredients; many (but unfortunately not all) people who are allergic to soy are even able to consume products that contain these ingredients.

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The answer, of course, depends on a whole number of factors, and, like most questions, is best answered as “it depends.”

If your concern is environmental or related to concerns for the health of agricultural workers, then organic always wins.  But if you can’t afford to let your green inclinations dictate all of your purchases and want to prioritize your organic spending based on personal health considerations, then read on.

Health considerations of organic vs. conventional foods

Fruits & Vegetables

In my opinion, the #1 health reason to choose organic fruits and vegetables would be to minimize the number of pesticides you consume.   While the individual pesticides used in this country have been approved as “safe” by the EPA and it appears that the benefits of eating fruits and vegetables are well outweighed by the risks associated with consumption of pesticides, there are still a number of good reasons to try and minimize your pesticide intake if you can afford to do so.  For one, while individual pesticides may be considered safe by our country’s  regulatory bodies, it is unclear whether the cumulative impact of multiple pesticides consumed over a lifetime is really harmless.  There are reasons to believe that it is not.  The most compelling scientific evidence points to a role of pesticides as endocrine (hormone function) disruptors and neurotoxins that impact proper brain development and functioning.  Because hormones play a role in everything from sexual development, reproductive health and breast health to blood sugar control and metabolism, it seems prudent to try to minimize exposure to chemicals that could disrupt their ability to function properly. In fact, the Endocrine Society has recently issued a Scientific Statement regarding endocrine-disrupting chemicals, linking them to a host of adverse health conditions, from genital abnormalities in newborn boys and early puberty in girls to insulin resistance, diabetes and obesity. For those people exposed to very high levels of certain pesticides (e.g., agricultural workers), the risk of certain cancers and birth defects also appears to become elevated.  

Because organic can be more expensive (though it is NOT always necessarily so), my own practice is to prioritize buying organic for those items whose conventional versions have been shown to have the heaviest pesticide loads.  The Environmental Working Group offers a Shopper’s Guide to Pesticides: a list of the “Dirty Dozen” and “Clean 15″ that you can print out or download to your iPhone .  The “Clean 15″ refer to those fruits and vegetables that contain the lowest amount of pesticides even when grown conventionally, so if you had to compromise in your budget, this would be a good place to start.  Even cooler (but more frightening and time-consuming) is a new online tool launched by the Pesticide Action Network (PAN) called “What’s On my Food?” This interactive tool allows you to pick any fruit or vegetable and see how many pesticides are found on it, what type of pesticides they are, what percent of all the fruit/vegetables actually contain this pesticide, and to compare what percent of conventional vs. organic versions of this fruit/vegetable contain the pesticide.  All of the data comes from the USDA and EPA.  If the data freaks you out, PAN offers you the chance to Take Action by sending a note to President Obama right from their website.

Other agricultural products

For some people, genetically-modified (GMO) agricultural products are also an area of concern.  The body of science is only just starting to catch up with the industry, and there’s emerging evidence to suggest that we may in fact have reason to be concerned about GMO foods for health reasons, with increased risk of food allergies/intolerances being one of the more compelling concerns. The greatest concern about GMO foods, though, is not what we know, but what we don’t know; there is very little by way of long-term safety data on human diets that include GMO foods, yet we already eat a whole heck of a lot of them.  For a list of foods that tend to be GMO in our country, you can check out the Institute for Responsible Technology’s Non-GMO Shopping Guide. Currently, a good rule of thumb is that if the corn or soybean derivatives in your food don’t explicitly claim to be organic or non-GMO, then they are GMO. Ditto for cottonseed oil, canola oil and sugar.  If that concerns you, then buy organic for these types of products.

Dairy

Moving beyond produce, legumes and grains, is organic dairy worth paying a premium for?  The #1 health reason to choose organic milk would be to avoid consuming a hormone called rBGH or rBST. Conventional milk comes from cows that were likely treated with this hormone in order to boost their milk production, and it contains significantly higher levels of a compound called Insulin-like Growth Factor (IGF-1) as a result.  From a health perspective, there is a concern that this IGF-1 is absorbed by our bodies when we consume these dairy products, and since higher levels of endogenous IGF-1 are associated with breast and gastrointestinal cancers, this additional exogenous IGF-1 could produce a similar consequence. Yet the FDA has studied this matter and concluded that there is not sufficient evidence to support this linkage.  So what to do?

This is one problem that the market may resolve for you.  Due to strong pressure from consumers, more and more brands of  non-organic dairy products are now pledging that their milk comes from cows are not treated with r-BGH.  For example, Lactaid milk, Wal Mart’s private label milk brand (Great Value), Dean, Hood and Farmland Dairy have already eliminated rBGH in some or all of their products, and Dannon yogurt recently pledged to remove milk containing rBGH from all of its products by the end of 2009.  Yoplait and Starbucks have made similar commitments, with the former company having promised to phase it out by August of this year. My own practice is to choose organic milk when a suitable lactose-free version is available for me (Organic Valley makes one, as does Horizon Organic); but I’ll buy conventional lactose-free milk from Lactaid, who claims that their cows were not treated with rBGH if the organic isn’t available.  Still, given the strong, clear evidence of the bone health consequences of not getting enough calcium vs. the more tenuous evidence of a potentially elevated cancer risk associated with conventional milk, I’d choose conventional milk over no milk at all even if organic and rBGH-free options weren’t available to me. Hands down.

Meat, Poultry & Fish

When it comes to meat and poultry, organic means that the animals were not routinely injected with antibiotics, nor were they treated with growth hormones.  It also means that the feed they ate was organic, which would imply much lower pesticide levels.  For many people, these are reasons enough to choose organic over conventional.  Still, it is worth mentioning that organic meat/poultry by definition does not imply that the nutritional profile of the beef/chicken itself is healthier, nor does it imply that the animal was raised humanely.  I’d look for “grass-fed” over simply “organic” for (though any beef that claims the former will often be organic, too) if you wanted beef that was higher in healthy omega-3 fats, and I’d look for “free range,” the “Certified Humane” designation or the Niman Ranch label if you want to know that your animal was raised more humanely.

When it comes to fish labeled “organic,” things get tricky.  Currently, the USDA does not permit any fish to be labeled as organic, since they have not yet established a standard.  Theoretically, however, since wild-caught fish would not be eligible to be certified organic (by definition), the only fish that will potentially be eligible to be labeled “organic” are going to be farm-raised fish that were fed “organic” feed.   In fact, a recently-adopted USDA panel approved guidelines for organic labeling for fish which specify that the fish-feed would need to contain 75% organic material and up to 25% wild fish for it to be labeled organic; it expected that this recommendation will pave the way for a formal organic standard for fish in the near future.   This seems sort of convoluted to me, as the healthiest fish are generally those that are wild-caught and dine exclusively on their natural diets of other wild fish, plankton or algae… not “organic” corn and soy feed.  But far be it for me to question the USDA’s infinite wisdom.

Personally, I think the more important claims to look for on seafood would be those that address safety, sustainability and country of origin. As I’ve suggested here before, you can download the Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watch guide, which combines a multitude of factors, including safety AND sustainability, in recommending the best seafood picks.  (The guides are even customized by geographic region).  Alternatively, you can download it to your iPhone so that its always with you when shopping.  You may be surprised to see that there are plenty of farmed fish varieties that make the cut as far as safety (low mercury and PCB levels) and sustainability go, so wild isn’t automatically the best choice in all circumstances.

Got all that?

Are organically-grown foods actually more nutritious?

While there are a small but  growing number of studies which suggest that organically-grown produce may be richer in nutrients than conventionally-grown produce when all other factors are controlled for, the reality is that your choices at a supermarket hardly resemble a controlled experiment.  You may have organically-grown asparagus that was picked a week ago from Argentina sitting alongside conventionally-grown asparagus that was picked 2 days ago from your own state: in this case, the locally-grown, conventional choice is likely to be more nutritious.  Organic farming methods are just one factor that play into the nutritional value of a given fruit or vegetable, with factors like weather, ripeness when picked, storage conditions,  processing and time since picking all influencing the final product.  So it’s not a foregone conclusion that always choosing organic will be a nutritionally superior proposition.

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This is what authentic South-of-the-Border alegria looks like

I first encountered Alegria--which means ‘happiness’– when I was visiting Puebla, Mexico. It sort of looks like a thick rice cake, only it’s much denser and sweeter.  The fact that it’s mostly sold in confectionary shops belies the subversive nutritional value of this beloved treat, which is made of puffed, whole-grain, gluten-free amaranth bound together by honey, sugarcane syrup or molasses.  Some versions are studded with nuts and seeds (as pictured above), while others are pure cakes of uninterrupted amaranthness.

What’s that?  You’ve never heard of amaranth?

Well, I hadn’t either before I was forced to start exploring gluten-free grains to replace the couscous, pasta, bread and bulgur in my life .  And it’s a crying shame, since amaranth is one of the most nutritious ‘grains’ on the planet--second only to quinoa and teff in my book.  Like quinoa, amaranth hails from South America, is a seed that behaves like a cereal grain, and is very high in protein and fiber. It  also has a more complete protein profile than most other grains, containing certain essential amino acids that are not commonly found in other grains.  Amaranth has twice the iron as wheat does; though vegetarian sources of iron are generally difficult to absorb.  (But eating iron-rich plant foods like amaranth with vitamin-C rich foods, like fruit, can help with absorption.)

1/4 cup of raw amaranth, which will pop up to 1 cup “puffed” in the recipe below, contains 179 calories, 31g of carbohydrate (of which 3.2g is fiber), 77 mg of calcium (a non-trivial 8% of the daily value), 10% of the daily value of folate, and a surprising 3.7 mg of iron!  (That’s almost 50% of the daily value for men, but remember it’s not likely to be very well absorbed unless you eat it along with some vitamin C.

Cooked amaranth is delicious and nutritious as well, but be warned that the texture will be gooey/gummy and pasty rather than fluffy and grainy; in fact, it is often used as thickening agent for soups and stews.  I’d think about using cooked amaranth as a more nutritious substitute for savory grits or polenta rather than as a substitute for rice.  Perhaps I’ll even come up with a recipe that features it in the not-too-distant future.

Finally, amaranth leaves are also edible and ridiculously nutritious.  If you live in a neighborhood with a large Jamaican population, you may have seen them sold as callaloo, but they’re also used widely in East Asian, Southeast Asian and African cuisines under different names.  (Other Caribbean cultures call Taro leaves–rather than amaranth leaves– “callaloo,” so it may be hard to know which plant your callaloo really comes from unless you know what amaranth leaves look like.)   But I digress: if you happen to find it in your neck of the woods, don’t be afraid to give it a try!  You can use it in place of spinach in any recipe. 1 cup of cooked amaranth leaves/callaloo contains only 30 calories and almost a full day’s worth of Vitamin C and Vitamin A, 20% of the daily value for folate, and 30% of the daily value for calcium, making it an excellent non-dairy source of that elusive bone-building mineral.

Making alegria

The trick to making alegria at home is in puffing your own amaranth.  And the trick to puffing your own amaranth is a super-hot non-stick wok with a tight-fitting lid.  (Of course, if you live near a well-stocked health food store that actually sells puffed amaranth cereal, then this recipe will be an absolute breeze.)  It took me a few attempts to get this right, which is why I’d recommend having a little extra amaranth on hand in case the first few batches don’t quite puff as you want them to.

Raw amaranth (left) and popped (right)

Basically, get the wok nice and piping hot.  And then get it even hotter.  When you think the wok is hot enough, try adding 1 TBSP of the amaranth and close the lid immediately.  If it doesn’t start popping like crazy, your wok wasn’t hot enough.  (It took me a few failed TBSPs before my wok was hot enough, which is why I’d recommend having about 1/4 cup extra, just in case.) Within a minute of adding the amaranth, your crazy popping will slow down; using oven mitts if necessary, swirl the covered wok around a little as if you were popping popcorn; this should give the popping action a brief second wind before it grinds to a halt.  Once the popping dies down for good, remove the puffed amaranth from heat and repeat this process until all of your amaranth is puffed.  With each progressive batch, your puffing will improve since the wok will be hotter and hotter.  But don’t be tempted to add more than 1 TBSP at a time to speed things up, or you’ll end up with too many unpopped kernels.

Recipe: North of the Border Alegria

North of the border alegria: Maple-y and muy delicioso!

1/2 cup raw amaranth grain, puffed to about 2 cups per the instructions above (or, if you’re lucky enough to find puffed amaranth cereal in your area, you can just use 2 cups of it)

1/2 cup pure maple syrup (this is the part that makes it North of the Border.  Don’t use an adulterated “pancake syrup” like Aunt Jemima for these!)

1/4 cup dried fruit pieces (I used Vitamin C-rich dried cranberries)

1/4 cup toasted pumpkin seeds (pepitas)

Directions: In a saucepan, bring the maple syrup to a boil, and boil for at least 7 minutes to cook off some of the water so that your alegria bars won’t be too moist and fall apart.  (Ideally, if you have a candy thermometer, boil the syrup to about 240 degrees).  Then, add the amaranth and stir with a spatula to combine.  Add the dried fruit and pumpkin seeds and stir until well combined.  Pour mixture into a 9″x9″ baking dish lined with parchment paper and let cool.  Cut into 8 bars.

Nutrition info per bar (assumes recipe above makes 8 bars): 145 calories, 25g carbohydrate (of which 1g is fiber), 4g protein, 4g fat and 2 mg (25% of the daily value) of iron.

Take that, Rice Krispie treats!

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